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How to Build Your Wash Day: Stop Following a Routine and Start Listening to Your Hair

1 day ago
6 min read

Wash day doesn’t have to mean using every product in your cabinet.


In fact, one of the biggest mistakes I see is trying to copy someone else’s wash day routine without considering what your own hair and scalp actually need.


Your hair is unique. Your curl pattern, density, strand thickness, scalp, lifestyle, color history, and styling goals all play a role in determining what products and techniques will work best for you.


That’s why I want you to stop asking, “What products should I use?” and start asking:


“What does my hair need today?”

That question is the foundation of building a successful wash day.


Start With Your Scalp


Before you think about your curls, think about your scalp.


Is your scalp oily? Dry? Flaky? Does it have product buildup? Have you been sweating more than usual? Have you gone longer between wash days?


Your cleanser should be chosen based on what your scalp needs.


If your scalp needs a deeper cleanse, you may need a clarifying shampoo. If your scalp is comfortable and doesn't have significant buildup, a gentler cleanser may be appropriate for your regular wash day.


Your scalp is the foundation for healthy hair, so don't choose your cleanser based solely on what someone else is using.


Step 1: Cleanse


The first step is to cleanse your scalp and hair. Make sure your hair is thoroughly saturated with water before applying shampoo.


Focus on your scalp and roots, using your fingertips to massage and loosen oil and buildup. You don't need to aggressively scrub your ends. As you rinse, the cleanser will travel through the lengths of your hair.


For many people with curls, cleansing once or twice a week is a good starting point, although your individual needs may vary.


Product suggestions:



Stylist tip: When clarifying, follow with a hydrating shampoo if your hair needs additional cleansing and hydration. Always assess how your scalp and hair feel rather than automatically using the strongest cleanser every wash day.


Step 2: Treat


Once your hair is clean, determine what your hair needs from a treatment.


Ask yourself: Does my hair need moisture, protein, or both?


If your hair feels dry, rough, or lacks softness, you may benefit from a moisturizing treatment.


If your hair feels weak, overly soft, or unusually stretchy when wet, a protein treatment may be helpful. These signs aren't definitive on their own, so consider your hair's history and overall condition, too.


Color-treated hair may also benefit from a consistent conditioning routine to help maintain softness and manageability.


Product suggestions:



You don't necessarily need a treatment every wash day. Choose based on your hair's condition and how it responds over time.


Stylist tip: You don't necessarily need a separate treatment every wash day. If you're short on time, a multitasking product like EcoSlay Fortifex may help simplify your routine. The goal is to give your hair what it needs without adding unnecessary steps.


Step 3: Condition & Detangle


After treating your hair, it's time to condition and detangle.


Conditioning helps provide slip, improve manageability, and make your hair easier to work with.


One of my wash-day non-negotiables is simple:


Always detangle while conditioning.

Apply your conditioner generously and work through your hair in sections. Start at the ends and gradually work your way toward the roots. Use your fingers or an appropriate detangling tool, and avoid forcing your way through knots.


Product suggestions:



Stylist tip: Your conditioner and detangling technique work together. Choose a conditioner that provides enough slip for your hair, take your time, and work in manageable sections. The goal is to detangle gently while minimizing unnecessary breakage and making styling easier.


Step 4: Style


Now it's time to decide what your hair needs from your styling products.


This is where your desired finish comes into play.


Do you want:

  • More definition?

  • More volume?

  • Soft, touchable curls?

  • A longer-lasting style?

  • A lightweight finish?

  • More elongation?


Your styling products should support your goal.


For example, someone with finer hair may want a lightweight styling product that provides hold without weighing the hair down. Someone with thicker or denser hair may need more product or a stronger-hold styler to achieve the desired result.


And remember: products are not one-size-fits-all.


Just because a product works beautifully for one person's curls doesn't mean it will give you the same result.


Style on Soaking-Wet Hair

For many curly and wavy hair routines, water is one of your most important styling tools.


I recommend applying your styling products to soaking-wet hair and working in sections.


The amount of product you use will depend on your hair's density, strand thickness, curl pattern, and desired finish.


Don't be afraid to experiment.


Your perfect routine may be one styling product—or it may require layering two products to achieve the definition and hold you want.


And Then...Dry Your Hair!

Your wash day isn't finished when the products are applied.


You still have to dry your hair.


Whether you choose to air dry, diffuse, or sit under a hooded dryer, your drying method can affect your final result.


  • Air drying: Convenient when you have time, but avoid routinely going to bed with wet hair.

  • Diffusing: Helps speed up drying and can support your desired volume and definition.

  • Hooded drying: A hands-free drying option that allows you to sit comfortably while your curls dry. It's a great choice when you want to dry your hair without holding a diffuser or manipulating your curls.


Allow your hair to dry completely before separating curls or manipulating the finished style. If you diffuse, use a heat setting and airflow that your hair can tolerate comfortably.


Not sure which drying method is best for your curls? Read my previous blog post, "Air Dry vs. Diffuse: What’s the Best Way to Dry Your Hair?", where I break down the pros and cons of different drying methods and explain why allowing your scalp to dry is an important part of your routine.


Your Wash Day Doesn't Have to Look the Same Every Week


This is probably the most important thing I want you to take away:


Your wash day should be customized to your hair's needs—not dictated by a viral routine.

Some wash days may require a clarifying cleanse.


Some may require extra moisture.


Some may call for protein.


Some days you may want maximum definition, while other days you may want volume.


That's okay.


Your hair isn't the same every day, so your routine doesn't always have to be the same either.


Build Your Wash Day Around These Four Steps:


1. Cleanse — What does my scalp need?

2. Treat — Does my hair need moisture, protein, or both?

3. Condition — Is my hair hydrated and properly detangled?

4. Style — What finish am I trying to achieve?


Once you learn how to answer those questions, you can stop collecting products and start building a routine that actually works for your hair.


Watch the Full Wash Day Video


Want to see how I put these steps together?


Watch my YouTube video where I walk you through How to Build Your Wash Day and show you how to assess what your hair needs before choosing your products.


▶️ Watch the video on YouTube:




About the Author


Ja'Nera Nicole is the owner of Curls Unlimited Curly Hair Studio in Roswell, Georgia, and a licensed cosmetologist with over 10 years of experience specializing in wavy, curly, and coily hair. She is an Innersense Organic Beauty Educator and is passionate about helping clients embrace their natural texture through healthy hair practices, personalized education, and science-backed product recommendations.

Whether she's behind the chair, creating educational content, or teaching fellow stylists, Ja'Nera's mission is to empower every person to wear their natural curls with confidence.

For curly hair tips, product recommendations, and appointment information, follow @TheCurlMajesty on social media or visit Curls Unlimited Curly Hair Studio.


Affiliate Disclosure


Some links on this website are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through them—at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products I personally use, trust, and recommend to my clients. Your support helps me continue creating free educational content for the curly hair community.


Disclaimer


The information shared on this website is for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Hair care results vary based on individual hair characteristics, lifestyle, and maintenance routine. Always consult a licensed healthcare provider for medical concerns and a licensed cosmetologist for personalized hair care recommendations.

 
 
 

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